I need your help
- Karthik Mohanarangam
- Feb 1
- 2 min read
Today at an international leather trade fair, I got a behind the scenes lesson I wish more designers and small and medium private label brands could see.
A lot of brands still operate like this. The brand or designer shares a tech pack, sometimes even just paper patterns or a file. They choose from what leather is available. Then they leave the material details to the factory.
But the real story happens before the designer ever sees the finished leather.
From the hide onward, a whole ecosystem shapes the final outcome. Layers are split, thickness is tuned, hardness and softness are engineered, and finishes are built through multiple steps and specialists. The leather you touch at sampling is already the result of many upstream decisions.
A few moments that genuinely surprised me.
One, a leather I could crumple like paper, a wild horse style effect, and it sprang back to its original form with a new pattern that was not there before. Imagine an apparel piece where every wear creates a fresh map of texture. Your jacket becomes one of one over time.
Two, waterproof suede coatings using food grade type chemistry, think food coloring. No more panic over a water spill on a leather couch. If performance holds up at scale, that is a huge unlock for suede in everyday use categories.
Three, water based paint chemistry without plastic. If it meets durability and flex standards, this is the type of innovation that can change how finished leather looks and feels without the plasticky vibe.
The gap I noticed is that these innovations are real, but they often do not reach designers in a way that is digestible enough to trigger creative ideas.
So I am curious. Where should material innovation translation sit, with the brand, the
factory, or the material supplier? And for designers and buyers, what format actually helps you use new materials faster, swatch kits, short videos, one page material cards, performance test sheets, or something else?
Would love to learn how others bridge this gap.

